History of the Andes

Accompanied by the famous botanist Aimé Bomplant, Alexander Von Humboldt arrived in Quito in January 1802. He began systematically exploring the Andes and climbing every volcano within his reach. The capital of the time, the Royal Audience of Quito, was to become his main base. Quito scholars such as Carlos Montufar were lucky enough to accompany him on some of his expeditions. In those days, Quito was a multifaceted city, full of surprising stories, mysteries and hidden corners. But above all, we were at the beginning of major popular events which, a few years later, would lead to liberating historical events. To make sure you don't miss out on any of these complex and fascinating stories, we invite you to join our historian guides on a journey into the past and present of Ecuador's capital. An immersion in republican history and the cultural mix of the capital's old and unknown neighborhoods and colonial culture. Traditional lunch in a restaurant. We'll have time to talk about the various milestones in the city's history, such as the visits of various European explorers, while we take a leisurely stroll through some of the city's landmarks, such as the Santo Domingo convent, the Plaza de la Independencia or the La Compañía church.

We'll round off our Quiteña encounter with scenes from everyday life and artistic, anthropological and cosmological interpretations.

Dinner optional (self-paid).

Early in the morning, your guide will pick you up at your hotel to take you to the north-western Andean region. The road from the Ecuadorian capital to the Pacific coast crosses many different altitudinal gradients and ecosystems of the Andean Chocó. As we descend through these varied forests, we'll gain a better understanding of the importance of Andean topography and its multiple effects on the region's great biodiversity. At around 1h30, we’ll arrive at the confluence of the Alambi and Tandayapa rivers, where we’ll make our first stop. This is the site of one of the region's oldest hummingbird gardens. Several dozen species have been recorded in this small garden, where the floral arrangements and watering holes are a major attraction for observation and photography. We'll have lunch with the instigator of the project, who will tell us about his experience. In the afternoon, we begin our ascent along the Tandayapa valley towards the cloud forests of the Bellavista reserve. Most of this private conservation area, nestled in the foothills of the Andes, is a vast cloud forest populated by astonishing, photogenic flora and fauna: tree ferns, reptiles, nocturnal mammals, heliconias, amphibians and a multitude of birds. After dinner, we'll sit quietly in front of the observation area, where curious and stealthy nocturnal mammals such as Opossum, Coati, Tayras and the newly described Clouded Olinguito (Bassaricyon neblina) come every night.

Overnight in a charming lodge.

Before breakfast, we'll have a chance to start discovering the avifauna of these atypical forests. Early in the morning, a multitude of insectivorous birds gather around the huts to feed on insects exhausted by so much fluttering in the lodge lights. We spend the rest of the day exploring the reserve's various trails, ridges and ravines. A visit to the scientific station will help us better understand the importance of studying and conserving these subtropical rainforests, interpreting the ecological system of this complex Upper Chocó ecosystem. We will have the opportunity to observe and photograph a large number of birds such as Toucans, callistas, Tanagers and Trogons. Being at a higher altitude, we'll be able to observe around 15 different species of hummingbird and perfect our photography techniques around waterholes. In the evening, we'll head off in search of insects, amphibians, birds, reptiles and mammals.

Overnight in a charming lodge.

This last morning of observation will enable us to complete our long list of species spotted in these cloud forests. We’ll enjoy our last breakfast in Bellavista before heading off to the Northern Andes for a radical change of vegetation, climate and atmosphere. The rest of the day will be dedicated to Andean history and culture. Along the way, we'll make a number of stops, including one at the Tulipe archaeological site, home to the extinct Yumbos civilization. They inhabited the region between 800 and 1660, before the great volcanic eruptions of the Cordillera Occidental, to which Pululahua and Pichincha belong. The site boasts some 2,000 Tolas (ceremonial mounds) and a complex of multi-purpose pools. It was a key crossing point for trade between the Pacific, the Amazon and the Andes. The long road up the Andes goes through a selection of agricultural landscapes, before entering Quechua territory. In the mid-afternoon, we’ll arrive at the La Victoriana reserve. Here, twice a day, up to several dozen Cock-of-the-rocks (Rupicola peruviana) gather in the parade arenas called "Lek", to engage in a frenetic competition to attract females with their songs and dances, strategically positioning themselves in the light of the rising sun to show off their bloody plumage. In the afternoon, we rejoin the main road for a leisurely return to the city of Quito. Depending on the weather and time of day, we can stop off in the xerophilous vegetation of the Inter-Andean Valley or in the upper part of Pululahua, the world's third-largest inhabited volcanic crater.

Overnight in a charming hotel in the Inter-Andean Valley.

Despite Alexander Von Humboldt's writings about possible fumaroles and ash from the Antisana volcano, this massif, located in the Cordillera Oriental, just 1h30 from the Ecuadorian capital, is extinct. Motivated by his studies and his thirst to conquer all the volcanoes that crossed his path, the German naturalist settled at the foot of this captivating mountain in March 1802 to try and unravel its secrets. Between climatic measurements, plant collections and sketches, he climbed the volcano and wrote: "On Antisana, we were able to reach heights to which no man had ever climbed before".

Early departure from Quito for the inland foothills of the Cordillera Oriental. During the day, we'll cross the Andean steppes in search of the Andes' most emblematic bird. We'll also be on the lookout for the White-tailed Deer (ssb sustus), the Ecuadorian Culpeo Fox (ssb reissii) and the Ecuadorian Hillstar (ssp. jamesonii), one of America's highest-altitude hummingbirds. At the foot of the majestic stratovolcano, the plains of acolla vegetation are also home to the country's only population of Andean Ibis. Plant formations here alternate between gentian tapestries, herbaceous paramo, cushions, Polylepis and Pumamaqui (Oreopanax) groves and wetlands, from which you can hear the song of marsupial frogs (Gastrotheca sp.). The Mica Lagoon, at the end of the road, is one of the Ecuadorian capital's largest water reserves. Lunch is an opportunity to observe some of the high-altitude hummingbirds and perhaps the rare spectacled bear.

Return to Quito in the afternoon.

When Alexander Von Humboldt is mentioned, his name is quickly associated with the Andes. And it's precisely through the Andes that this 3-day itinerary will take us. The Pan-American Highway, heading south, passes through indigenous villages, valleys and fragmented landscapes, ravines and crops, following the famous Avenue of the Volcanoes. After a 2-hour drive, we arrive at the small indigenous village of Zumbagua, where we’ll visit the traditional market, partly preserved from the ravages of modernity. Here, tradition mingles with color and flavor. In this semi-arid valley, the inhabitants still use llamas as beasts of burden to transport native tubers or tropical fruits freshly harvested on the western slopes. You'll then climb up to the turquoise Quilotoa lagoon. From the sharp ridges of the crater, the lights compete with each other in color, plunging the landscape into a magical atmosphere. Possibility of descending the 200 meters to the lagoon's shores, accompanied by herds of sheep and llamas. We'll take advantage of the light of the sunset to make a few photographic stops to capture landscapes of crops and scenes of daily life.

Long considered the highest peak in the world, Chimborazo was more than just an explorer's challenge for Humboldt. It wasn't just for glory or achievement that he wanted to conquer its flanks. His intentions were in fact complex. He wanted to measure atmospheric pressures, altitudes, temperatures and chemistry, collect plants, mosses and rocks, draw landscapes, test hypotheses, draw maps and observe the unknown face of volcanoes from high above. Following in the footsteps of these explorers, we'll follow the different altitudinal gradients of the "colossus of the Andes" across the sandy steppes to the foot of the glacier. Cross-sections of the route will enable us to interpret the region's geological and volcanological past. We'll be on the lookout for the flora and fauna typical of these ecosystems, perfectly adapted to the sun's rays, extreme temperatures and winds. In particular, we'll be on the lookout for the Chimborazo Hillstar hummingbird, the endemic subspecies of Paramo fox, the stealthy Rufous-bellied Seedsnipe and plenty of vicuñas. Lunch at the first refuge. For the more athletic, we'll climb to the second refuge (5000m).

Dinner and overnight stay at the same hosteria.

After a hearty traditional breakfast, it's a 2-hour drive through a mosaic of traditional crops: quinoa, amaranth and all kinds of legumes and tubers, to reach Cotopaxi National Park. Its emblematic volcano is the country's second-highest peak (5987 metres) and one of the most closely watched active volcanoes in the world. A short hike around the Limpiopungo lagoon, with a backdrop of Cotopaxi, Rumiñahui and Sincholagua volcanoes at over 3800 metres, will allow us to explore high-altitude Andean flora and very special landscapes. Weather permitting, you can hike up to the first refuge at over 4800 metres, where you can get up close to the glacier. For the more adventurous, we'll also have the chance to hike along the grassy moors on the slopes of Rumiñahui. Lunch in a high-altitude lodge opposite Sincholagua.

Return to Quito in the late afternoon.